Landmark Italian where attention to detail wins the day.
If there’s a magic to Lulu La Delizia, it’s in the balance of the humble and the elevated. This is by no means Perth’s most rarefied restaurant in terms of tone, but such is the attention to detail, that a meal here is inevitably, perpetually a pleasure.
Order a vermouth, and it’s placed on the table with optional ice, soda and citrus to match. Move to wine, and it’s a list managed by James Tuxworth which is evolving closer towards Friuli-Venezia Giulia to suit the food – whether it’s Tuxworth or any of the other floor staff pouring it, count on being in safe hands. As for the cooking, Joel Valvasori continues to invest in his team, meaning they keep things smooth despite the fact they run an entire menu of daily-changing specials on top of everything else. Lean into it, and it might mean al dente squid-ink bigoli sauced with cherry tomato and vermouth sugo and fat chunks of prawn. Or rarely sighted handmade fusi Istriani tossed with roasted rabbit meat, pancetta and sage.
This is by no means Perth’s most rarefied restaurant in terms of tone, but such is the attention to detail, that a meal here is inevitably, perpetually a pleasure.
There’s more appeal than panna cotta on the main dessert menu, but there’s no faulting the tuna crudo or the gnocco fritto, piped full of porcini and parmesan cream and capped with mushroom praline. Humble, elevated, exquisite.
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