Perth’s foremost seafood restaurant just keeps on getting better.
Is one of Australia’s most essential and downright excellent seafood restaurants hiding in plain sight? Madalena’s doesn’t present as anything fancy, but that’s its magic, because the tone here is so democratic, so thoroughly free of fuss, that it’s almost impossible not to enjoy yourself. The fit-out makes the most of the aspect, the sunlight creeping in as the day flows on, the breeze rolling off the ocean. And while the tables may be collapsible, the chairs simple bentwood, the simplicity allows the focus to stay on the most important part of a restaurant experience: enjoyment.
Raw yellowfin tuna served on ajo blanco with shio kombu and confit pepitas is all about crunch, umami, creaminess and accents of garlic and almond, while still keeping the fish centre stage.
But the food sure doesn’t hurt. Raw yellowfin tuna served on ajo blanco with shio kombu and confit pepitas is all about crunch, umami, creaminess and accents of garlic and almond, while still keeping the fish centre stage. Rankin cod wings – a low-waste special – are charry and tender from the charcoal grill, lacquered in fish sauce oil and served with chamomile butter for luxurious fragrance. Next, Glacier 51 toothfish comes just set, with large flakes of flesh fanned out over rubbly, oily sauce vierge. A dish of balance and restraint.
And – whisper it – the wine list is one the state’s best, too, forward thinking but respectful of classics, without ever losing sight of the drinker. Add the bar upstairs, and this is a package deal, unique and exceptional.
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