A city favourite continuing to evolve its fine-dining direction.
A change of vision at Fleur adds new interest for those who’ve made this ambitious, fine, focused, yet casual diner a staple of their CBD dining. What remains is the sense that there’s a vision at play; always expected from a venue with the John Parker stamp.
Luxuriously glossy muscovado tart, with double-vanilla ice-cream, is simple and classic.
As dining rooms go, Fleur manages to blend modernity with the grandeur of its restored surrounds. A menu nodding to Asia, which proved so enthralling on its inception, has since given way to a more Francophile outlook. Expect dishes with a classic backstory, but perhaps an Australian liberty on ingredients, whether it be a shallot tarte Tatin with goat’s feta and a herb salad, or well-handled and cooked market fish – a generous fillet of goldband snapper – accompanied by parsnip chips, silverbeet and leek. Luxuriously glossy muscovado tart, with double-vanilla ice-cream, is simple and classic.
While there are undoubtedly some kinks to iron out as they continue to hone things, one thing is clear – evidenced by options of Siberian grand cru caviar, near hundred-dollar Wagin duck and a wine list that puts local favourites alongside international benchmarks – Fleur is about good times above all.
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