Reinvented Italian classics served in the rustic, bare-walled backdrop of one of Subiaco’s best-loved historic buildings.
The scent of garlic prawns, once a staple on this site, has been replaced by the comforting whiff of grilled parmesan and crisp rabbit croquettes as a new generation of punters breathe life into the labyrinth of rooms in this historic Federation building in the heart of Subiaco.
Rabbit croquettes – crisp cigars of creamy, slow-cooked rabbit panko-crumbed and served with thick aïoli – are a highlight of the small plates section.
Velvet drapes fall from the pressed-tin ceiling towards dark timber floorboards, and lunchtime candlelight adds mystique as Riccardo Annunziata’s modern-day take on prawns – popping up in saucy casarecce with broccoli rabe and chilli – lands on the table. Those rabbit croquettes – crisp cigars of creamy, slow-cooked rabbit panko-crumbed and served with thick aïoli – are a highlight of the small plates section. For mains, there’s the likes of braised lamb shoulder or a hefty pork cotoletta, but the osso buco shines, collapsing onto polenta.
There’s pizza and pasta, but the crisp-skinned barramundi is a win too, served on a bed of sensuously soft cannellini beans. It’s no nonsense, all pleasure, with staff who hit their marks on punctuality, attentiveness and knowledge, throwing in occasional friendly banter. Finish with a traditional tiramisù or a fashionable chocolate cannolo, perhaps add a seasonal special such as grilled figs with sorbet, then consider retreating to the rear to the attached Bar Loiter, its own excellent offer, for a digestif to cap it off.
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