In new Highgate opening Lo’,Tomas Bidois does the thing everyone who’s been on a life-changing trip does: rave about it. Except Bidois is letting his food do the talking.
With a menu sporting fried green tomatoes and devilled egg hash browns, the chef behind pop-up Tommy Tacos is clearly eager to bring the fun, soul, and comfort emblematic of his travels around America’s South to Beaufort Street, with a distinct local flair. Wine veers close to home, mostly from Western Australia, while those hankering for a bourbon won’t be left dry with a finely curated list of an American booze staple.
Lo’ is a nod to the Lowcountry of South Carolina, low and slow cooking and low fuss. Take the sirloin steak, a slice of southern barbecue culture but rather than yams you’ll find something tailored to the West Australian season, like Jerusalem artichokes drizzled in honey. Collard greens are swapped for woodfired Brussels sprouts. Butter is comfort and you’ll find comfort in deep-fried chicken cradled between the halves of a buttery biscuit (an American biscuit, mind you) with a quenelle of miso maple butter. Gravy is unapologetically lashed over deep bowls of mash. It’s food made to be shared family style, and while this is sure to be a night-time haunt for many, weekend breakfast is also on