If there’s a natural habitat for the premium steakhouse it’s the city. Recently completed, ONE The Esplanade at Elizabeth Quay could hardly be a better place for famed Sydney restaurant 6Head to put down roots in the west.
There’s an essential solidness running through 6Head from heavy bound leather menus to pearl handled steak knives. Weighty pieces, it all conveys a value which matches a theatrical decor that’s an agreeable antidote to the sterile Scandi ethos that’s become all too prevalent. Perth diners got to know head chef Shane Middleton’s work at Fleur but here he’s flexing experience at Santini Bar & Grill, and perhaps his time working for Heston Blumethal when it comes to an eye for quality.
Talking of theatre, steaks are presented to the diner before hitting the grill, and carved table-side. Producers are some of the best in Australia, including Mayura Station and O’Connor. While beef is undoubtedly the star turn, attention to non-ruminants is equally impressive. From a platter of award-winning Appellation Oysters to a serious caviar menu, and premium seafood stars like Patagonian toothfish. Sommelier, Camila Luzzi, navigates an expansive wine list which has many an international star – say, a glass of Billecart-Salmon ‘Brut, Rose’ by the glass – but also plenty of local ones as well with Luzzi spruiking the delights of Margaret River region small batch winemakers Amato Vino and LAS Vino.