Twenty Seats

True hospitality underpins this intimate restaurant for a thoughtfully crafted dégustation experience.

Twenty Seats exists with a love of dégustation dining at its heart, along with the theatre and trappings of traditional hospitality. It starts when you enter to warm greetings from the charming service staff, led by restaurant manager Remy Legodec, with offers to take coats followed by a welcome towelette for hands upon being seated.

Carrot is smoked, onion is turned into foam, rabbit loin is rolled in pancetta, but Stuart never loses sight of deliciousness.

There’s attention to detail throughout the cosy space decked out in harmonious blues and greys, but it never feels stuffy. In the kitchen, industry veteran and owner Todd Stuart runs a 10-course, three-hour menu that is French in technique, and sources locally and seasonally, but stays global in its flavours. Courses are engaging throughout, from nostalgic snacks including a moreish KFC-spirited chicken drumette to Rankin cod accented by soy, miso and dill. Carrot is smoked, onion is turned into foam, rabbit loin is rolled in pancetta, but Stuart never loses sight of deliciousness.

The wine pairings are equally considered, as are the supplementary rare vintage drops and the refined cocktails. This may be fine-dining, but there’s fun and showmanship here, no more so than in the theatrical Raclette cheese course served tableside before dessert. This is dining run as an orchestra, with service and food its symphony. Time for the encore.